December 23, 2004: The flight from Mexico City to Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas.
December 23, 2004: The flight from Mexico City to Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas.
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Tuxtla Gutierrez: every phonebox was full.
Tuxtla Gutierrez: every phonebox was full.
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Teja roof in San Cristobal de las Casas: tiles are traditionally formed by bending soft clay over the knee.
Teja roof in San Cristobal de las Casas: tiles are traditionally formed by bending soft clay over the knee.
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Pay de Queso: Cheese pie, with more (berries) or peach topping, in San Cristobal de las Casas
Pay de Queso: Cheese pie, with more (berries) or peach topping, in San Cristobal de las Casas
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San Cristobal Cathedral in the zocalo (town square). Lots of hard sell in the forecourt...
San Cristobal Cathedral in the zocalo (town square). Lots of hard sell in the forecourt...
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Christmas in San Cristobal de las Casas!
Christmas in San Cristobal de las Casas!
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Small business is big business in Mexico.
Small business is big business in Mexico.
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January 2004: the fear of terrorism reaches far into the hills of Chiapas.
January 2004: the fear of terrorism reaches far into the hills of Chiapas.
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A Jesus shop in San Cristobal.
A Jesus shop in San Cristobal.
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Inexpensive hotels abound. This one was 60 pesos ($6) a night for a very decent room with hot water. San Cristobal.
Inexpensive hotels abound. This one was 60 pesos ($6) a night for a very decent room with hot water. San Cristobal.
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January 2004: the Iraq war distant, but close to all.
January 2004: the Iraq war distant, but close to all.
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Stunning Santo Domingo Church and convent upon which locals would descend from the highland villages to hard sell their wares.
Stunning Santo Domingo Church and convent upon which locals would descend from the highland villages to hard sell their wares.
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'Un broma (a joke)' said Joel of our Bike Fridays. Later, when we were able to pile 3 of them in his tiny car, it became 'una buena broma'!
'Un broma (a joke)' said Joel of our Bike Fridays. Later, when we were able to pile 3 of them in his tiny car, it became 'una buena broma'!
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Eileen, Ursula, myself and Rui set out from Teopisca, to scope out Chiapas under the lovin' care of Ursula of Los Pinguinos Bike Tours
Eileen, Ursula, myself and Rui set out from Teopisca, to scope out Chiapas under the lovin' care of Ursula of Los Pinguinos Bike Tours
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Setting off for a week's tour of Chiapas with Ursula of Los Pinguinos Bike Tours, San Cristobal de las Casas.
Setting off for a week's tour of Chiapas with Ursula of Los Pinguinos Bike Tours, San Cristobal de las Casas.
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Churches of all shapes and sizes, everywhere in Mexico ...
Churches of all shapes and sizes, everywhere in Mexico ...
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The road east to Lagunas de Montebellos, Chiapas.
The road east to Lagunas de Montebellos, Chiapas.
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The world's smallest church half way up a steep hill in Chiapas.
The world's smallest church half way up a steep hill in Chiapas.
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This is where those Bed, Bath and Table homewares catalogs get their inspiration. A humbly decorated house in the boonies of Chiapas.
This is where those Bed, Bath and Table homewares catalogs get their inspiration. A humbly decorated house in the boonies of Chiapas.
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Three pairs of little wheels pause outside a little roadside church in Chiapas.
Three pairs of little wheels pause outside a little roadside church in Chiapas.
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Wonderful window in San Cristobal de las Casas.
Wonderful window in San Cristobal de las Casas.
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Great view from 7th-century Mayan ruin Chinkultic, Chiapas.
Great view from 7th-century Mayan ruin Chinkultic, Chiapas.
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Jodi from Alaska was on her way to Tierra del Fuego, an 18 month trip.
Jodi from Alaska was on her way to Tierra del Fuego, an 18 month trip.
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Palenque main quadrangle
Palenque main quadrangle
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Main temple, Palenque
Main temple, Palenque
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Palenque inscription
Palenque inscription
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Palenque inscription
Palenque inscription
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Palenque, ruin in the mist, as seen from atop another temple
Palenque, ruin in the mist, as seen from atop another temple
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WHOA! Real steep ...
WHOA! Real steep ...
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Some restoration work being done on Palenque carvings
Some restoration work being done on Palenque carvings
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Palenque inscriptions
Palenque inscriptions
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Palenque inscriptions
Palenque inscriptions
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Part of the massive Palenque ruin hidden far from the main site
Part of the massive Palenque ruin hidden far from the main site
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Exotic jungle flora near Palenque, Chiapas
Exotic jungle flora near Palenque, Chiapas
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Palenque temple
Palenque temple
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Temple of the Sun explanation in English, Spanish and Maya, Palenque
Temple of the Sun explanation in English, Spanish and Maya, Palenque
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Butterfly on a $2 fake Panama hat - I later bought the real thing for $9.
Butterfly on a $2 fake Panama hat - I later bought the real thing for $9.
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Palenque temple
Palenque temple
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Palenque inscriptions
Palenque inscriptions
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Bike Friday owner Rui from San Antonio.
Bike Friday owner Rui from San Antonio.
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Uphill all the way to these villages in Chiapas...
Uphill all the way to these villages in Chiapas...
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There's no flies on these Chamulan kids: '$2 to photo three of us, or $1 each'.
There's no flies on these Chamulan kids: '$2 to photo three of us, or $1 each'.
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Colorful facade of church in Chamula, Chiapas
Colorful facade of church in Chamula, Chiapas
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Chamulan Market. They don't like having their photo taken. The kids will do it for a price.
Chamulan Market. They don't like having their photo taken. The kids will do it for a price.
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Eileen and Rui secure the Bike Fridays to a post in Chamula.
Eileen and Rui secure the Bike Fridays to a post in Chamula.
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Shop signage - why use a sign - use the doorframe!
Shop signage - why use a sign - use the doorframe!
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The christening dress is the highlight of a tot's early life. This one costs $US80. Little houses embroidered on the skirt.
The christening dress is the highlight of a tot's early life. This one costs $US80. Little houses embroidered on the skirt.
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Left half of the bus timetable in San Cristobal de las Casas: you can go anywhere you want in Mexico by bus.
Left half of the bus timetable in San Cristobal de las Casas: you can go anywhere you want in Mexico by bus.
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Right half of the bus timetable. I kept these two images on my camera to zoom in on when needed.
Right half of the bus timetable. I kept these two images on my camera to zoom in on when needed.
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Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas
Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas
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Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
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Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas
Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas
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'Constellation' by Juan Alcazar. Comitan Gallery, Chiapas
'Constellation' by Juan Alcazar. Comitan Gallery, Chiapas
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Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
Painting in Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
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'Women of Juchitan' by Fernando Olvera. Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
'Women of Juchitan' by Fernando Olvera. Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
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'Studio Window' by Ariel Mendoza Banos. Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
'Studio Window' by Ariel Mendoza Banos. Comitan Gallery, Chiapas.
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I bought this little number for $15. Zinacantan.
I bought this little number for $15. Zinacantan.
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Traditional shawls for sale in Zinacantan, Chiapas. Around $15 each, after some serious bargaining.
Traditional shawls for sale in Zinacantan, Chiapas. Around $15 each, after some serious bargaining.
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The Zinacantans don't like being phoographed. This was from a looong way off.
The Zinacantans don't like being phoographed. This was from a looong way off.
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New Year's Day in Zinacantan, Chiapas. The elder men wear the ribbons. Everyone wears the tunics. No photos allowed.
New Year's Day in Zinacantan, Chiapas. The elder men wear the ribbons. Everyone wears the tunics. No photos allowed.
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The start of my Yucatan ride, at the Monkey Hostel in the walled city of Campeche.
The start of my Yucatan ride, at the Monkey Hostel in the walled city of Campeche.
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View at 5am from the balcony of the Monkey Hostel, Campeche.
View at 5am from the balcony of the Monkey Hostel, Campeche.
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Mosaic facade on church in walled city of Campeche
Mosaic facade on church in walled city of Campeche
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Impeccable service at this upmarket restaurant in Campeche, where the main meal was still only $6.
Impeccable service at this upmarket restaurant in Campeche, where the main meal was still only $6.
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New meets old: Buy a 32" color TV - and have it delivered by pedicab.
New meets old: Buy a 32" color TV - and have it delivered by pedicab.
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Little Mayan houses of Yucatan.
Little Mayan houses of Yucatan.
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Thatch store near Hopelchen, Campeche.
Thatch store near Hopelchen, Campeche.
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A place selling fried fish for lunch, near the Edzna turnoff, Campeche.
A place selling fried fish for lunch, near the Edzna turnoff, Campeche.
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Jose, the custodian of the Tohcock ruin, near Hopelchen, Campeche. 7th century AD.
Jose, the custodian of the Tohcock ruin, near Hopelchen, Campeche. 7th century AD.
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Tohcock ruin, near Hopelchen, Campeche. 7th century AD.
Tohcock ruin, near Hopelchen, Campeche. 7th century AD.
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Someone showed me how to peel a grapefruit with my Swiss Army knife. Except he sliced his finger as well!
Someone showed me how to peel a grapefruit with my Swiss Army knife. Except he sliced his finger as well!
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The fabulous wall of over 300 images of Chac, the god of rain, at ruins of Kaba, Ruta Puuc, Yucatan.
The fabulous wall of over 300 images of Chac, the god of rain, at ruins of Kaba, Ruta Puuc, Yucatan.
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Chac, the God of Rain. I thought this was his mouth - it's his eyeball!
Chac, the God of Rain. I thought this was his mouth - it's his eyeball!
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Figure on temple at Uxmal
Figure on temple at Uxmal
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Hacienda Tabi, where I ran into 30 schoolkids from Iowa cycling across the Yucatan
Hacienda Tabi, where I ran into 30 schoolkids from Iowa cycling across the Yucatan
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Hacienda Tabi
Hacienda Tabi
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Fabulous Hecienda Tabi, where I slung my hammock for $US9 across the walkway.
Fabulous Hecienda Tabi, where I slung my hammock for $US9 across the walkway.
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Yucatan door
Yucatan door
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Doors of Yucatan
Doors of Yucatan
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Hacienda Tabi - a faded grandeur
Hacienda Tabi - a faded grandeur
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The massive facade of Hacienda Tabi, Ruta Puuc area, Yucatan.
The massive facade of Hacienda Tabi, Ruta Puuc area, Yucatan.
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The imposing Santa Elena Church, Ruta Puuc, Yucatan.
The imposing Santa Elena Church, Ruta Puuc, Yucatan.
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The custodian of the church in Santa Elena, Ruta Puuc area, Yucatan.
The custodian of the church in Santa Elena, Ruta Puuc area, Yucatan.
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View from atop Santa Elena Church.
View from atop Santa Elena Church.
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Top of Santa Elena church
Top of Santa Elena church
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Santa Elena cyber cafe where I downloaded photos
Santa Elena cyber cafe where I downloaded photos
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Decorated house in Santa Elena, Ruta Puuc, Yucatan
Decorated house in Santa Elena, Ruta Puuc, Yucatan
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Uxmal maiin pyramid
Uxmal maiin pyramid
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Uxmal ruins
Uxmal ruins
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Bird sculptures on roof, Uxmal ruin
Bird sculptures on roof, Uxmal ruin
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Windows through windows to a pair of backpackers at Uxmal, Yucatan.
Windows through windows to a pair of backpackers at Uxmal, Yucatan.
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Uxmal detail
Uxmal detail
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Uxmal ruins - makes you feel like Indiana Jones...
Uxmal ruins - makes you feel like Indiana Jones...
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Uxmal ruins
Uxmal ruins
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Symbol of fertility - man with giant phallus! Labna, Ruta Puuc
Symbol of fertility - man with giant phallus! Labna, Ruta Puuc
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Sayil Ruin, Ruta Puuc
Sayil Ruin, Ruta Puuc
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Panama hats are made in Becal, Campeche, in underground caves to keep the jipijapa (pron. hippy-happa) straw supple.
Panama hats are made in Becal, Campeche, in underground caves to keep the jipijapa (pron. hippy-happa) straw supple.
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Arty home design in Celestun.
Arty home design in Celestun.
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Sylvia Verboom, Dutch backpacker turned cafe owner, at El Lobo, Celestun.
Sylvia Verboom, Dutch backpacker turned cafe owner, at El Lobo, Celestun.
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This feisty little girl was a prickly as that cactus - she bopped her brother over the head with her bottle! Celestun, Yucatan.
This feisty little girl was a prickly as that cactus - she bopped her brother over the head with her bottle! Celestun, Yucatan.
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How the Mayans shaped their brows. Merida Museum of Anthropology.
How the Mayans shaped their brows. Merida Museum of Anthropology.
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'Carbon for sale', Celestun
'Carbon for sale', Celestun
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The delightful Louise Verboom of cafe Lobo.
The delightful Louise Verboom of cafe Lobo.
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Cenote Sambula, near Valladolid. An underground well with tree roots reaching down from the ground above.
Cenote Sambula, near Valladolid. An underground well with tree roots reaching down from the ground above.
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Another shot of Cenote Sambula, near Valladolid.
Another shot of Cenote Sambula, near Valladolid.
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VW dealership in upmarket Valladolid
VW dealership in upmarket Valladolid
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Fuit seller in the street at Piste, gateway to Chichen Itza.
Fuit seller in the street at Piste, gateway to Chichen Itza.
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Wonderful windows!
Wonderful windows!
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More wonderful windows...
More wonderful windows...
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Teja roof tiles in Valladolid
Teja roof tiles in Valladolid
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Mexican billboard advertising
Mexican billboard advertising
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Little schoolboys in a tiny village on the way to Valladolid
Little schoolboys in a tiny village on the way to Valladolid
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Mexican housefront
Mexican housefront
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On the way to Valladolid
On the way to Valladolid
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On the way to Valladolid
On the way to Valladolid
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The convent in the golden City of Izamal
The convent in the golden City of Izamal
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Convent, Izalam
Convent, Izalam
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Convent, Izamal
Convent, Izamal
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Arch detail, Izamal
Arch detail, Izamal
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Dona Flory, beautician, age 72: When are you coming back"?Me: Ummm, maybe next year?Dona Flory: What, when I'm an old lady?
Dona Flory, beautician, age 72: When are you coming back"?Me: Ummm, maybe next year?Dona Flory: What, when I'm an old lady?
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Izamal
Izamal
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Izamal convent staircase study I
Izamal convent staircase study I
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Izamal convent staircase study II
Izamal convent staircase study II
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Izamal convent staircase study III
Izamal convent staircase study III
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Izamal loading zone
Izamal loading zone
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Gateway to Izamal
Gateway to Izamal
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Gateway to izamal
Gateway to izamal
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Izamal taxi - one of the few things that aren't yellow in this town
Izamal taxi - one of the few things that aren't yellow in this town
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Graceful architecture in the golden city of Izamal
Graceful architecture in the golden city of Izamal
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Izamal taxicab
Izamal taxicab
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Still life with old bomb in Izamal
Still life with old bomb in Izamal
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Door in Izamal
Door in Izamal
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Can you stand any more photos of the golden city of Izamal?
Can you stand any more photos of the golden city of Izamal?
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Some kind of agave plant - like the tops of giant pineapples...
Some kind of agave plant - like the tops of giant pineapples...
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Cenote near Hopelchen - great way to cool off, bike clothes, shoes and all!
Cenote near Hopelchen - great way to cool off, bike clothes, shoes and all!
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Yaxaba was that-away, I decided to go straight ahead...
Yaxaba was that-away, I decided to go straight ahead...
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Beautiful family on the way to Valladolid
Beautiful family on the way to Valladolid
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I was totally entranced by this little girl
I was totally entranced by this little girl
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The family that served me a bowl of pozole...
The family that served me a bowl of pozole...
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Budget accommodation: $5 mosquito net,, $15 hammock, $2 to rent the space. Piste, near Chichen Itza.
Budget accommodation: $5 mosquito net,, $15 hammock, $2 to rent the space. Piste, near Chichen Itza.
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Chichen-Itza, main pyramid
Chichen-Itza, main pyramid
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A Mexican wave of turistas, Chichen-Itza
A Mexican wave of turistas, Chichen-Itza
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Chichen-Itza: like something from outer space just landed...
Chichen-Itza: like something from outer space just landed...
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Temple of columns, Chichen-Itza
Temple of columns, Chichen-Itza
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An iguana watches the creatures crawling all over the pyramid at Chichen Itza.
An iguana watches the creatures crawling all over the pyramid at Chichen Itza.
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The massive ball court of Chichen-Itza. The ball had to be put through the ring on the left wall. Winning team were honorably decapitated and sent straight to heaven...
The massive ball court of Chichen-Itza. The ball had to be put through the ring on the left wall. Winning team were honorably decapitated and sent straight to heaven...
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Close up of that impossibly high ring through which the ball had to be passed without use of hands.
Close up of that impossibly high ring through which the ball had to be passed without use of hands.
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Carving on ball court wall of player holding decapitated head of opposing team player.
Carving on ball court wall of player holding decapitated head of opposing team player.
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Carving of blood spurting from man's body after having his heart honorably ripped out by an eagle.
Carving of blood spurting from man's body after having his heart honorably ripped out by an eagle.
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Carvings of eagles ripping out the hearts of men...
Carvings of eagles ripping out the hearts of men...
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Chichen Itza cenote - a giant natural well, unfortunately with plastic Coke bottles floating in it.
Chichen Itza cenote - a giant natural well, unfortunately with plastic Coke bottles floating in it.
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Ascending the steep stairs of the Chichen-Itza pyramid.
Ascending the steep stairs of the Chichen-Itza pyramid.
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Stone statue of Chac Mool, the reclining god, out of reach of touristy fingers....
Stone statue of Chac Mool, the reclining god, out of reach of touristy fingers....
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Unusual circular building in Chichen Itza.
Unusual circular building in Chichen Itza.
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Ruins galore!
Ruins galore!
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Scale model of Chichen Itza site.
Scale model of Chichen Itza site.
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In the courtyard of Merida Hostel
In the courtyard of Merida Hostel
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Tecno Bici Bike repair shop in ourskirts of Merida. Sign says they also repair TVs (black & white and COLOR), videos etc.
Tecno Bici Bike repair shop in ourskirts of Merida. Sign says they also repair TVs (black & white and COLOR), videos etc.
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Wonderful decoration on a humble house.
Wonderful decoration on a humble house.
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Mexican chicken ad: Mmmmmm... tasty.... enjoy it!
Mexican chicken ad: Mmmmmm... tasty.... enjoy it!
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Doorway in Merida
Doorway in Merida
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Doorway in Merida
Doorway in Merida
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Small business started with this $10 Yucateca invention - a crank operated orange skinner. Tixobob, outside Merida.
Small business started with this $10 Yucateca invention - a crank operated orange skinner. Tixobob, outside Merida.
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Church in urban Merida.
Church in urban Merida.
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More accidental expressionist art - Merida.
More accidental expressionist art - Merida.
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The relaxed way Mexicans socialize during work and play.
The relaxed way Mexicans socialize during work and play.
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Cenote Dzitnup: right in the middle of Valladolid.
Cenote Dzitnup: right in the middle of Valladolid.
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Gerardo Montoya from Argentina thought my Bike Friday was way cool...
Gerardo Montoya from Argentina thought my Bike Friday was way cool...
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Valladolid architecture
Valladolid architecture
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Convent in Valladolid
Convent in Valladolid
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Residence, Valladolid
Residence, Valladolid
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Streetscape art, Valladolid.
Streetscape art, Valladolid.
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Detail of decoration outside kitchen of Merida Hostel
Detail of decoration outside kitchen of Merida Hostel
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Map of Yucatan on water tank at Merida Hostel. I'm about to cross the Yucatan.
Map of Yucatan on water tank at Merida Hostel. I'm about to cross the Yucatan.
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Church door, Valladolid.
Church door, Valladolid.
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About to hit the east coast of the Yucatan peninsula.
About to hit the east coast of the Yucatan peninsula.
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Skinny bird spotted near Coba.
Skinny bird spotted near Coba.
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Making pi�atas - paper mache vessels filled with sweets then smashed open with baseball bats at parties. Near Tulum.
Making pi�atas - paper mache vessels filled with sweets then smashed open with baseball bats at parties. Near Tulum.
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Cenote Carwash near Tulum - all the taxi drivers use to stop and wash their cars there until the owner of the land stopped it. Now divers pay $6 each to jump in and swim the caves.
Cenote Carwash near Tulum - all the taxi drivers use to stop and wash their cars there until the owner of the land stopped it. Now divers pay $6 each to jump in and swim the caves.
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Sunrise in Tulum.
Sunrise in Tulum.
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Tulum sand - like fine, white sugar...
Tulum sand - like fine, white sugar...
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Tulum campsite at Don Armando's - until I found a cheaper pair of palm trees next door.
Tulum campsite at Don Armando's - until I found a cheaper pair of palm trees next door.
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Still life with papaya, Tulum campsite...
Still life with papaya, Tulum campsite...
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Loads of iguanas dot the rocky shoreline of Tulum
Loads of iguanas dot the rocky shoreline of Tulum
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Tourists holidaying in Cancun descend by the busload on Tulum.
Tourists holidaying in Cancun descend by the busload on Tulum.
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Iguanas guard the fort of Tulum...
Iguanas guard the fort of Tulum...
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The cliffside ruins of Tulum.
The cliffside ruins of Tulum.
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The cliffside ruins of Tulum.
The cliffside ruins of Tulum.
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Oooh my head hurts... recovering from dehydration in Tulum...
Oooh my head hurts... recovering from dehydration in Tulum...
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$15 a night to rent one of these caba�as in Tulum
$15 a night to rent one of these caba�as in Tulum
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$15 a night in Tulum
$15 a night in Tulum
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The funsters I met on the beach in Tulum: cyclists, massage therapists, doctors, hippies...
The funsters I met on the beach in Tulum: cyclists, massage therapists, doctors, hippies...
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Patricia Soto, who I met in the caves near Loltun, invited me to Cancun to stay at her house. I got dehydrated, so her invitation saved my life!
Patricia Soto, who I met in the caves near Loltun, invited me to Cancun to stay at her house. I got dehydrated, so her invitation saved my life!
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A model of a Maya cottage for the cityfolk of Cancun to appreciate.
A model of a Maya cottage for the cityfolk of Cancun to appreciate.
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The interlacing of palm leaves to produce a water tight roof.
The interlacing of palm leaves to produce a water tight roof.
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A joyride for the tourists on Isla Mujeres. Resort megopolis of Cancan seen across the waters...
A joyride for the tourists on Isla Mujeres. Resort megopolis of Cancan seen across the waters...
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Sculpture garden on southern tip of Isla Mujeres.
Sculpture garden on southern tip of Isla Mujeres.
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Cancun as seen from Isla Mujeres.
Cancun as seen from Isla Mujeres.
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Striking house on Isla Mujeres.
Striking house on Isla Mujeres.
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Roof detail.
Roof detail.
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Side view of unusual house shaped like a conch shell.
Side view of unusual house shaped like a conch shell.
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Rear view of house. Out of this world!
Rear view of house. Out of this world!
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This would have been a great photo of the dead coral beach on Isla Mujeres except for the bit of plastic rubbish.
This would have been a great photo of the dead coral beach on Isla Mujeres except for the bit of plastic rubbish.
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Dead coral beachscape on Isla Mujeres.
Dead coral beachscape on Isla Mujeres.
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Leaving Cancun and Patricia Soto, for San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas. The Bike Friday is folded ready for the 17 hour, $US50 journey.
Leaving Cancun and Patricia Soto, for San Cristobal de las Casas, Chiapas. The Bike Friday is folded ready for the 17 hour, $US50 journey.
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Riotous decoration on a building in Tuxtla Gutierrez, capital of Chiapas.
Riotous decoration on a building in Tuxtla Gutierrez, capital of Chiapas.
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The bicycle police, Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas.
The bicycle police, Tuxtla Gutierrez, Chiapas.
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View over Mexico City.
View over Mexico City.
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